{"id":142,"date":"2012-07-07T09:30:34","date_gmt":"2012-07-07T07:30:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gereonskeukenthuis.nl\/blog\/?p=142"},"modified":"2015-07-10T16:12:08","modified_gmt":"2015-07-10T14:12:08","slug":"142","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gereonskeukenthuis.nl\/blog\/142\/","title":{"rendered":"Jeffrey Greene, tagliatelle with sea marsh foods"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\u00a0Picture of Dutch and English copy of \u00a0books<\/i><\/div>\n
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I invited chroniqueur Jeffrey Greene to participate in \u201cgeprekken en gerechten\u201d (conversation and recipes) Many years ago I read a book from his hands called \u201cFrench Spirits\u201d A story on living in in former presbytery in the smokey hills of Burgundy. In that time I did not visit this region often. Later I found the same book in Dutch in my parent\u2019s house in Burgundy. It is translated by the mother of a dear school friend.\u00a0 It is always nice to reread some parts from this book, especially when you are in a tiny Burgundian village. Jeffrey writes about the people he meets in a very colorful way. So I contacted Jeffrey in Paris. Kindly Jeffrey sent me another book, titled \u201d The golden bristled boar\u201d He has dugged into the life and background of this beast. But Jeffrey does more things. He teaches creative writing and he is now researching on edible things from te wild. Quite a topic and a trending one.\u00a0 Let’s see if\u00a0 I can write him a recipe, that\u00a0 reflects\u00a0 his knowledge on Burgundy, animals and wild edible things. And needless to say a combination with wine is made.<\/div>\n
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Who is Jeffrey? Tell me some more<\/b><\/div>\n
I grew up in a shack-like house in the New England woods with a rather eccentric young mother and father.\u00a0\u00a0My mother was a teenage runaway from a grim boarding school, her head full of fanciful ideas of creating a family and living off the land based on M.G. Kains’ book\u00a0Five Acres and Independence<\/i>.\u00a0\u00a0My father came from a typical Jewish family in New York’s Lower East Side.\u00a0\u00a0Sent to art school to study textile design for the family business, he made himself the family’s black sheep by becoming a sculptor instead and marrying a sixteen year old.\u00a0\u00a0My parents’ attempts at raising goats and planting a garden turned out to be resounding disasters with deer and rabbits decimating the garden and the goats poisoning themselves on laurel. However, my father was a naturally gifted hunter-gatherer.\u00a0\u00a0He never hunted game, but he gathered wonderful bounty from the seaside or berries from the woods.\u00a0\u00a0Our having to move to the city when I was eleven was a great disappointment for me.\u00a0\u00a0I was a shy kid who enjoyed solitude and the woods suited that.\u00a0\u00a0My mother was too isolated though and took a job at Yale University, and my parents divorced.<\/div>\n
Although I’ve gone on to become a professor, poet, and author, I’m someone who likes to make things\u2014whether it’s building walls and bookcases or cooking dinner.\u00a0\u00a0I’m ultimately more physical than intellectual.\u00a0\u00a0I think that comes from my early years in the woods.\u00a0\u00a0My writing comes from this too\u2014it springs from things, thingyness\u2014observant of how the senses are engage.\u00a0\u00a0The rest is character and place.<\/div>\n
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When did you move to France and how did you adapt to French life and habits?<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0To be honest, it never occurred to me that I would leave America, that I would become a permanent resident in France, a kind of dual citizen, not officially, but in every other sense, an insider and outsider in two countries.\u00a0\u00a0It was not an overt decision like ones my ancestors made, immigrating to America for economic opportunities or to save their Eastern European skins.\u00a0\u00a0My life in France crept up on me.\u00a0\u00a0In 1986, I was finishing my graduate studies in Texas, and my mother gave me a call, “I’ve got good news!\u00a0\u00a0I will be on sabbatical at the Pasteur Institute in Paris.\u00a0\u00a0Why don’t you come an write for a year?”\u00a0\u00a0So instead of being a responsible, freshly minted Ph.D., hunting for a junior faculty position in some forsaken place, I came on quixotic impulse to Paris to be a writer.\u00a0\u00a0I soon found myself at Castello di Gargonza in Tuscany, sharing a dinner that included crostini, pasta with artichoke, and wild boar stew with my mother’s boss, Mary.\u00a0\u00a0Who knew I’d end up marrying a molecular biologist in a foreign country?\u00a0\u00a0It seemed like a conspiracy of improbables.<\/div>\n
For a decade my life was complicated, because I did get a faculty position at a university in New England and could have supported a small family on phone bills and travel.\u00a0 But my sense of home slowly shifted to France, particularly after Mary and bought an old deserted presbytery (priest’s house) in northwestern Burgundy.\u00a0 We were living such a privileged life between the country and Paris.\u00a0 Eventually, I made the decision to give up my tenured position and devote my time to writing.\u00a0 Fortunately, I was asked to teach at the American University of Paris, which is a great pleasure.\u00a0 I love working with our young people coming to us from all over the world.<\/div>\n
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You wrote me that you were researching a book on edible things from the wild, why did you start these activities?<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0My father had a huge influence my hunter-gather habits.\u00a0\u00a0He fished, caught crabs, and gathered oysters, clams and oysters.\u00a0\u00a0My brother and I joined him in these activities.\u00a0\u00a0Simply, it was the most fun thing we did together, while he still lived with us.\u00a0\u00a0Even now, as my father approaches 90, the woods and seaside provide pure joy for him.\u00a0\u00a0He was a child of the Depression and his motivation as hunter-gatherer instincts seemed primarily based on getting something for nothing or a kind of treasure hunt.\u00a0\u00a0It was my mother who instilled the value and pleasure derived from healthy natural foods.<\/div>\n
When I came to France, I began collecting mushrooms and that alone became a passion.\u00a0\u00a0I was writing for a different book, one about how I saw myself as an American transplant in France, in fact how imported my sense of Thoreau and Emerson, American transcendentalists, to the French forests.\u00a0\u00a0I approached the subject through wild mushrooms, describing not only the pleasure of looking for them and their earthy, nutty, even smoky flavors that they add to cuisine but also the problems, how they absorb and concentrate radiation, heavy metals, and chemicals.\u00a0\u00a0It occurred to me that wild edibles, a popular topic, could be approached in important ways, including their role in culture, art, and survival.<\/div>\n
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You wrote a book on buying a presbytery in a small village in Burgundy, where you still live. Has anything changed over the years?<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0Yes, I wrote a book called\u00a0French Spirits<\/i>, which was translated into Dutch among other languages.\u00a0\u00a0The village I wrote about is Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses ( Rogny of the seven locks), which has the Loing River and the Briaire Canal running through it.\u00a0\u00a0Built in the 1600s, the Briaire Canal is the first canal in Europe linking two river valleys\u2014those of the Seine and the Loire.\u00a0\u00a0Much has changed in the twenty years since we bought the old deserted presbytery.\u00a0\u00a0Part of the charm of the village was that it seemed completely lost, and our neighbors were woodsmen, sheep farmers, and masons, people with country savvy and worked with their hands.<\/div>\n
The ports on the canal and the river were renovated, a park built, and some parking put it, so the town has become something of a minor tourist destination.\u00a0 Also a number of the old houses and the eleventh-century church next to our house were restored.\u00a0 Of course we’ve don’t major renovations and restoration work.\u00a0 Our gardens are thriving as is the old cur\u00e9’s orchard.\u00a0 My book turned out to be aptly named; many of the main characters have become French spirits.<\/div>\n
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Another book from you hand is on boars, that are abundant in Burgundy,\u00a0 you even learned how to butcher a half boar, what is you most striking anecdote on this animal?<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/b>The Golden-Bristled Boar: Last Ferocious Beast of the Forest<\/i>\u00a0was so much fun to write.\u00a0 In many ways, it was a sequel to\u00a0French Spirits<\/i>, since the main setting is the same as are many of the characters.\u00a0 Of course, many of experiences are recounted in the book.\u00a0 The wild boar and close relative the feral hog have become the number one animal outlaw in the world, and they’ve had an extraordinary relationship with humans, particularly in Europe and Asia.\u00a0 They figure in art, myth, cuisine, and even the founding of early civilizations.\u00a0 Burgundy is overrun with wild boars as is Germany, Italy, and elsewhere.\u00a0 This anecdote doesn’t appear in the book, but while I was doing a nationwide book tour in the United States I received an email from my personal doctor, who is a nature lover and helped connect me to a forestry expert who becomes a major character.\u00a0 He was on a major highway just outside of Paris when a group of wild boars caused a six-car accident.\u00a0 Only my doctor was still able to drive.\u00a0 Wild boars cause 14,500 accidents in France, more than any other large animal.<\/div>\n
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\u00a0I have the feeling that you are a dreamer. If you had to choose, only one option is possible, between being a writer or adventurer? What would it be?<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0Yes, I am a dreamer, which is different from being an adventurer.\u00a0\u00a0I have friends, mainly journalists who are far more adventurous than I am.\u00a0\u00a0They are driven to experience life’s extremes, often in awful war zones in Africa, the Balkans, Asia, and the Middle East.\u00a0\u00a0It’s not just war, but some go off to exotic places to report on nature.\u00a0\u00a0I admire them\u2014they are our witnesses.\u00a0\u00a0Making a life in Europe seems to me a true privilege and maybe an adventure only in taking professional risks for love and a richer life.\u00a0\u00a0So this question is for me.\u00a0\u00a0Nothing keeps me going more than having a project at my writing desk.<\/div>\n
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Which plant do you like the most and which one you dislike? I am very curious about that<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0This is one of the hardest questions I’ve ever been asked.\u00a0\u00a0All plants are amazing and a discussion of grass is hugely important, since life as we know it is sustained on grass.\u00a0\u00a0And who doesn’t love violets or field poppies or wild daffodils or cyclamen or any wild flower.\u00a0\u00a0The plant that amazes me is the snowdrop.\u00a0\u00a0They are the first sign of spring and they generate warmth to melt through snow.\u00a0\u00a0You see them take over the ground of forests here, and the wild daffodils.\u00a0\u00a0It’s truly magical.<\/div>\n
\u00a0I should say nettles and brambles, since I’m at constant war with them.\u00a0\u00a0My legs are burning now from yard work and nettles.\u00a0\u00a0But I wrote a book called\u00a0Water from Stone<\/i>\u00a0about land restoration, the protection of endangered species, and environmental education.\u00a0\u00a0When you change natural environment situations, certain native plants or exotics can take over and create hugely limited environments.\u00a0\u00a0The ash-juniper does that in Texas.<\/div>\n
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\u00a0As an American, what did wonder you the most in Burgundy ?<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0I don’t think Americans know too much about Burgundy, which is a huge region in France.\u00a0They’ve heard of the wines and the cuisine.\u00a0\u00a0Americans tend to go to Paris, Normandy, and Provence.\u00a0\u00a0I saw a movie when I was very young that was set Burgundy, and I had a vision of gentle rolling countryside, hidden chateaus, forests, and misty world full of deer and wild boar.\u00a0That’s what much of it is\u2014a beautiful harmony of forests, rolling countryside, rivers, ponds, and fecund earth.\u00a0\u00a0It’s hardly a wonder that the Neanderthals and early\u00a0Homo Sapiens<\/i>\u00a0lived there and that there was always a significant human population.\u00a0\u00a0There is much more\u2014some of the most gorgeous Romanesque churches with carved capitals, a unique art giving insight into the both the secular and the religious life in the medieval world.\u00a0\u00a0Abbeys, chateaux, and hospices.<\/div>\n
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You also write poetry, can you share something on this topic?<\/b><\/div>\n
What is the difference between Van Gogh or Rembrandt or the great Flemish painters and the greatest poetry of their time.\u00a0\u00a0These are pure arts, the creative foundations since the cave painters and oral tradition, which was in poetry.\u00a0\u00a0I started out as a poet, and I’m just finishing my fifth collection.\u00a0\u00a0It’s a pure art.\u00a0\u00a0I love writing the prose because it really is fun and engaging, but poetry matters deeply to me.<\/div>\n
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Speaking of food, which dish you prefer the most? And of course what food you do not eat?<\/b><\/div>\n
To pick out a single dish seems almost impossible\u2014I love everything from macaroni and cheese and pizza to dinners we were taught to prepare by the French president’s personal cook.\u00a0\u00a0I love to cook, and I love trying different ethic recipes.\u00a0\u00a0If I had to choose one thing, it would probably be lobster.\u00a0\u00a0I used to dive for lobsters at night as a kid.\u00a0\u00a0Now it’s impossible to afford them.<\/div>\n
\u00a0What I wouldn’t like to eat is easy\u2014brains, although I’ve probably eaten a lot of brains without knowing it.\u00a0\u00a0Now that I’m writing a book on wild edibles, there a ton of things that I’m worried about eating but will have to try.<\/div>\n
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Which wines do you like? Since you are in Burgundy it most be more.<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0Our village is in northwest Burgundy.\u00a0\u00a0Believe it or not, the closest wines to us are Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, and Pouilly Fum\u00e9 and on the Burgundy side Chablis and wines in the north, mainly white.\u00a0\u00a0We love these wines.\u00a0\u00a0My wife is a scientist and I’m a professor, and we don’t have much money to invest in wine.\u00a0\u00a0We love wines from all over.\u00a0\u00a0I still have to say Burgundies are my favorite.\u00a0\u00a0It’s still the wine we go to producers, and we put away to age.\u00a0\u00a0The trick we use is to go to restaurants in the C\u00f4te de Nuits and C\u00f4te de Beaune, and get recommendations for wine with food and if it’s good we get the producer’s address and buy for the future.\u00a0\u00a0Our big splurge is on Volnay and Pommard.\u00a0\u00a0Santenay is great, Savigny les Beaune, Chassagne Montrachet.\u00a0\u00a0It’s not cheap.<\/div>\n
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What else do you want to share?<\/b><\/div>\n
\u00a0My mother is Gretchen Van Blaricom, and she is half-Dutch.\u00a0\u00a0She’s proud of it.\u00a0\u00a0Obvious that makes me a quarter Dutch.\u00a0\u00a0We have the most extraordinary Dutch friends in our part of Burgundy.\u00a0\u00a0I can’t believe how many they are, and they are among our closest friends.<\/div>\n
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Picture cover of Jeffrey’s book<\/i><\/div>\n

THE RECIPE<\/b>
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\n<\/b>The Netherlands is a country of rivers and estuaries. Its shores, mudflats and beaches are full of edible wild things. Jeffrey went \u00a0all the way to Amsterdam to collect a boat, that he will use when he gathers wild edibles. \u00a0His wonderful story and ofcourse his Dutch descent this gave me the clue for his recipe. The dish I made for Jeffrey is a pasta dish with wild clams (kokkel in Dutch), Dutch shrimps, the grey ones, and salty vegetables like grasswort (salicornia Europea) and sea lavender (limonium vulgare) from the southwestern province of Zeeland. They can be found growing on the so called “kwelders” or sea marshes.
\nThe wine to pair this dish is a white Burgundy form the village of Mancey in Southern Burgundy, “M\u00e2con Mancey\u00a0 “Les Cadoles”\u00a0\u00a0Blanc”\u00a0\u00a0<\/i>The dish, the wine and the terroirs will have a gathering of their own. I hope Jeffrey enjoys it. I wish him a lot of succes while exploring, gathering, eating and writing (on) wild edible things<\/p>\n

Ingredients 4 persons:<\/p>\n

300 g of tagliatelle
\n1 kg of wild clams
\n250 g \u00a0peeled shrimps
\n150 g grasswort
\n150 g sea lavender
\n1\/2 lemon
\n1 chopped onion
\n1 glass of white wine
\nolive oil
\nbutter
\nsalt and \u00a0black pepper
\nparsley<\/p>\n

Preparation:<\/p>\n

Cook the pasta according to the instructions on the package. Put aside for later use. Rinse the clams a few times in salted water. This will take some time, because clams can contain a lot of sand! The last rinse should be done with fresh water. Gently rinse the vegetables and shake them dry. Never leave these vegetables in fresh water because they are used to salty waters. Cook the grasswort \u00a0for 3 minutes al dente. Heat 2 tbs. of oil in a big casserole, stir fry the chopped onion. Then add the clams and \u00a0the glass of wine. Put the lid on and leave the clams to cook for about 8 minutes. Shake the pan from time to time. Get the clams out of the casserole and save some of its cooking moisture. Put a knob of butter in the pan. Add the grasswort, the tagliatelle and some of the cooking moisture. Let this warm gently on a low fire. Put the clams back in the pan and mingle gently with pasta and vegetables. Finally add the shrimps and sea lavender. Season with some salt and \u00a0black pepper. Serve this dish on plates. Give it a dash of lemon juice, put on a tiny knob of butter and a sprinkle of chopped parsley.<\/p>\n

To vary this dish you may also use razors, American immigrants on our shores, to be found on every beach or mudflat. (picture)<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/i><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0Picture of Dutch and English copy of \u00a0books I invited chroniqueur Jeffrey Greene to participate in \u201cgeprekken en gerechten\u201d (conversation and recipes) Many years ago I read a book from his hands called \u201cFrench Spirits\u201d A story on living in in former presbytery in the smokey hills of Burgundy. In that time I did not … <\/p>\n

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